A famous author who spent time in Erie, Pa. in the late 1950's pronounced this "A city with either a church or a tavern on every corner." Robert Ludlum wasn't too far off. He also had good taste, because in the months when he acted in productions at the Erie Playhouse, Ludlum became a regular at Herman's Cafe, in the heart of Marvintown, the city's German section, at E. 28th and Parade Streets.

Ludlum always spoke glowingly of Herman Marquardt Jr., longtime proprietor of Herman's, which was actually named for Marquardt's father, the tavern's founder. Like many family-run bar/restaurants in Erie, this one featured drinks at popular prices and very good food. Herman's mother, Rose, worked in the kitchen into her 80s. His sister, Helen Froess, also served as cook for many years, while her husband, Bud Froess, now deceased, tended bar.

It was a wonderful combination that kept Herman's loyal customers well satisfied for decades. To watch Herman Marquardt Jr., who died Saturday at the age of 89, work behind the bar was like seeing Leonard Bernstein conduct an orchestra. He was flawless -- Herman, that is. The bar there stretches the full length of the tavern and would seem to be way too long for one person to tend, especially during rush hour.

But Herman would glide effortlessly back and forth, serving drinks for all and adding a pleasant word for each customer. When I was a young newspaper reporter, my shift would end at midnight, and on many a hot summer's night, I would walk down to Herman's for a cold beer before turning in.

One night, as Herm and I conversed at the bar, three young guys in their early 20s went into the men's room. A moment later, we heard a loud CRASH! and the guys came out and quietly took a seat at their table, looking sheepish. Without a word, Herman went back to the men's room, surveyed the damage, and then returned to his spot behind the bar. He waited a minute before speaking. "Somebody broke my mirror in there," he finally said. The three young fellows protested at once, "It fell down, Herm. Honest."

As he retreated down the bar to serve another customer, the guys quickly got up and left. Herman returned and I said, "The culprits left."

"I know," Herman said. "That mirror was ready to go, and now I've solved two problems." I must have looked quizzical, because he explained: "I don't have to take the mirror down and I won't see those mopes again. They'll be too embarrassed to come around again."

My admiration for Herman grew. I already knew he was a talented bartender and ran a great tavern, but I didn't realize what wonderful insight into human nature he possessed.

Not that I can speak with any expertise on this, but Herman's served the best draft beer in Erie. It's because he took that old German pride in his beer. He cleaned his draft system regularly and always had the nicest, cleanest glasses. He also offered about a half-dozen beers on tap, including an imported keg of Lowenbrau. Years later, when Lowenbrau was acquired by an American brewing company, Herman dropped it and began serving another popular choice from the old country.

Though born here, he spoke with a slightly clipped, second-generation German accent. It was the type of accent that was familiar around town when I was young, but it's now dying out. The sons of immigrants from Eastern Europe seem to be fading quickly from the scene.

You may wonder what this homage to a departed bartender has to do with readers of the Erie Times-News, but Herman Marquardt Jr. was an important part of the culture of this city since the 1930's, when he first started tending bar. What he was and where he worked -- in a well-known ethnic neighborhood -- mattered greatly to several generations of Erieites.

In recent years, I've not been a regular visitor to Herman's, although I did make it a point to drop in during the Christmas holidays every year. That's when Herman's serves its famous Tom & Jerries. It's a family recipe that elevated the place from simple corner bar to special destination. I've written about Herman and his popular tavern many times over the years. I spent so many enjoyable times there with family and friends, and I'll miss Erie's greatest bartender.

-- Kevin Cuneo